One of the principles at the heart of organic gardening is to completely eliminate the need to use sprays and dusts, even organically acceptable ones. While this might seem foolish — or even impossible — at first, by removing the need to continually spray and dust your garden, producing your own food becomes more enjoyable, safer and will require less work. This means more time spent admiring and eating the fruits of your labour, and less time spent preparing concoctions and potions!

So where do you start on the road to organic, pest-free self-sufficiency? Surprisingly, some of the best ways to contol pests and diseases don’t at first glance appear to be controls at all. By looking at her vegetable garden as a mini ecosystem which needs to be kept in balance, and thus in which no pests or disease can get out of control, the organic gardener is able to concentrate her efforts on:

• cultural techniques which will keep her vegetable plants in the best of health
• developing rich, biologically active soil
• encouraging a diverse population of predator species to keep insect pests in check.

But the place to start, and the foundation of your future organic vegetable growing success, starts with the plants themselves.

Buying healthy plants
Starting out with the healthiest plants you can find is a good way to ensure a healthy and productive vegetable garden. Use these tips to choose the best plants you can find:

Buy from nurseries or market stalls where the plants are well cared for. Plants which are allowed to stand in the sun on a hot pavement or which have been allowed to wilt are not a good choice, even if they’re cheap.

Look at the entire selection of plants on offer. If some of the plants appear to be in poor health, it may be that the healthier looking ones have arrived more recently from the supplier and have yet to succumb to the seller’s mistreatment. They might look healthy today, but could very well be diseased tomorrow.

Carefully look at the plant’s colour. Plants which appear slightly pale might just need to be fertilized, and this is easily corrected. But plants which have distinct yellow streaks or brown spots are diseased. Do not buy them, or any other plants in the selection.

Look for roots, and look at the roots if possible. Plants which have masses of roots growing through their container’s drainage holes have been left in too small a container for too long, and this could result in severe transplant shock if much of the root mass needs to be boken off in order to remove the plant from its container before transplanting. If you are able to (and if you are buying large quantities of plants, insist that you be allowed to) gently shake a plant loose from its container so that you can exmine the roots. The roots should be plentiful, but not wrapped in a tight spiral or almost filling the container.

Cultural techiques
Water early: If you irrigate your garden with a sprinkler from overhead, it’s best to water early in the day so plants can dry off before night falls. Foliage that stays wet for long periods of time is susceptible to leaf diseases, fungi that grow on leaves, tender stems, and flower buds. This tends to be a problem when plants stay wet throughout the night: Fungi spread quickly during the cool, moist evening hours. The fungi will cause the plant to be weakened, flowers will fall off, and fruit will begin to spot and become soft

Crop rotation: Do not grow the same plant family in the same spot year after year. Repetition of the same crop gives diseases a chance to build up strength. Design your garden so that each family of vegetables — cabbage family, cucumber family, and tomato/pepper family — can be moved to another block of your garden on a three-year rotation.

Avoid monocultures: Planting a wide variety of plants in your garden is another way to foil pests and diseases by encouraging diversity. Conventional lawns are an excellent example of a monoculture. Planting a mixture of lawn grasses will help prevent diseases from sweeping through your lawn, because some grasses will be susceptible and others won’t.

Companion planting is another way to use diversity – and avoid monocultures – to foil pests. Mixing marigolds and herbs in and between your vegetable plants, as opposed to planting solid blocks or rows of a single vegetable crop, is very effective, because many pests locate crops by smell and these strong-smelling plants can “hide” a crop by masking the odour which attracts insects.

Developing rich soil
Soil that is fertile, well-drained and teeming with communities of a diverse range of micro-organisms will greatly increase your vegetable garden’s health and productivity, since many pests and diseases spend part or all of their lives below-ground. Having a diversity of microbes in the soil will help keep them in check.

Healthy soil is an intricate mix of tiny rock particles, organic matter, water, air, fungi, micro-organisms and other animals. The more organic matter you add to your soil, the more biologically active your soil will become, and the more active it is, the greater the competition between benign micro-organisms and those intent on doing harm to your plants. Over time, adding organic material improves the soil’s structure, which in turn improves its ability to absorb and release water, thereby maintaining ideal moisture levels.

Although rich, well-fed soil is all most vegetable plants need to keep them growing vigorously and producing well, fertilizing them at the correct time is also beneficial, and will help boost their natural resistance to pests and disease. As a general rule, annual vegetables should be well-fed when they are young, and then given “booster” feeding when they start producing. Perrenial vegetables should be fertilised during the first third of their active growth in spring.

You can also fertilise them in summer, but not in autumn, as late fertilisation can stress them by encouraging tender new growth which may be winter-killed. When you apply fertiliser, always keep in mind that more is never better. Over-fertilisation leads to rank, spindly growth which always worsens problems with aphids and some other pests.

Encouraging predators
Encouraging a diverse community of insect predators is one of the best ways to manage pests. Beneficials, the term used for insect predators and parasites, play a vital role in the complex community which naturally exists in your garden by eating or parasitizing harmful pests.

The first and most important rule for the gardener who wants to encourage beneficial insects is to immediately stop using toxic sprays and dusts. Even organic pesticides kill indiscriminately, so use them only when absolutely necessary and then only on the plants being attacked. To attract beneficial insects into your garden, provide them with an attractive food supply. Since the adults of many beneficial insects only feed on pollen and nectar, the best way to attract them is to plant small-flowered plants such as dill, fennel, parlsey and mint.

You can also allow a few of your vegetables, especially members of the mustard family such as radishes, and broccoli to go to flower. There are also many ornamental annuals which can be used: simply use them as colourful borders or edging plants around your vegetable beds. Once the adults of beneficial species have arrived in your garden and had a good meal, the females will search for good places to lay eggs which will hatch into predatory larvae. Beneficial ground-dwelling insects such as beetles find refuge in the soil, under stones and in thick mulches.

It is important to minimise dust and to provide a source of water in hot, dry areas to protect beneficial insects, which are easily killed by dehydration. An old birdbath filled with water and rocks (to provide safe landing places and prevent drownings) will be used by many beneficial insects.

Birds are amongst the most efficient predators of harmful insects, so planting shrubs and trees, and supplying them with a source of water to attract them to your garden – and encourage them to stay and eat their fill! -  is a worthwhile investment.

And for consuming slugs, cutworms and many other ground-dwelling pests, nothing beats frogs and toads. Be sure to provide shelter and water for them, too.

Non-toxic control of insects
There are many different non-toxic control methods we can use against insects in the garden. Some are commercial sprays and powders, others can be made at home from household ingredients.

Use non-toxic insecticides only when absolutely necessary The following list of non-toxic insecticides should only be used whco absolutely necessary. It’s important to allow the garden to develop it’s own micro-divcrsily and ccology.

Bacillus thuringiensis Of the micro-organisms that make insects ill, Bacillus thuringiensis is by far the best known. Though safe to humans, it has a devastating effect on many pests. BT, as it is often called, appears on the market in the form of a soluble powder. The powder is suspended in water and sprayed on plant surfaces, where it is ingested by the pest. The BT spores then germinate into plants that occupy more and more of the victim’s body. A toxic crystal is also produced and is thought to be partially responsible for the insecticidal effect. BT is useful on both vegetable and fruit crops, aiding in the control of caterpillars, earworms, peach tree borer, cabbage moth, cabbage looper, and gypsy moth caterpillar.

Pyrethrum A is a botanical insecticide derived from the flowers of a species of chrysanthemum. The material causes rapid paralysis of most insects, but the insects usually recover unless the pyrethrum is combined with a synergist or other poison. There are several pyrethrmun products available that are certified organic. Use against aphids, thrips, caterpillars, ants, flies, earwigs, cabbage moth. As pyrethrum also affects beneficial insects it should only be used as a last resort.

Wettable sulphur is an effective fungicide and miticide. The sulphur interferes with important processes in fungal spores and is noted for its ability to suppress mite populations.

Other non-toxic pesticides
Gardeners have been using soap to control insects since the early 1800s. During the first half of thc 19th century, whale oil soap and, more commonly, fish oil soaps were an important part of insect control. Recent tests indicate that a good quality environmentally friendly dishwashing detergent, diluted with water to a 1 to 2% solution, provides the most consistent control and is easy to mix. There are also soaps available that are specifically formulated to control insects on plants. Thorough coverage of the plant and repeated applications may be necessary to bring insect populations under control and may damage some plants.

Barrier bands are wrapped around the trunks of fruit-bearing trees to prevent crawling insects and larvae from reaching the fruit and foliage. The insects will hibernate in the bands, which should be removed and burned. (Do not bury or compost). Tie corrugated paper, cotton, or sacking around the trunk. This is very useful against many damaging moth species.

Compost tea
Manure and compost tea is effective on many pests because of the micro-organisms that exist in it naturally.
How to make compost tea: use any container, but a plastic bucket is easiest. Fill half full of well-made compost and fill with water. Leave for 10 to 14 days, then dilute the tea concentrate to approximately 1 part tea to 10 parts water, straining out the solids with old pantyhose or cheese cloth. Spray on the foliage of any and all plants including fruit trees, perennials. annuals, vegetables, roses and other plants, especially those that are regularly attacked by insects or fungal pests. Compost tea is a very effective control for early blight on tomatoes.

Garlic/pepper tea
To make garlic/pepper tea, liquify 2 bulbs of garlic and 2 hot chillies in a blender with a cup of water. Strain the solids and add enough water to make 4 litres of concentrate. Use 1/4 cup of concentrate per 4 litres of water. To make garlic tea, simply omit the pepper and add another bulb of garlic. Add two tablespoons of molasses for more control.

Garrett Juice
(Ready to spray) One cup compost tea, one large tablespoon molasses, same of natural apple cider vinegar, same of liquid seaweed.

There are many vegetables that can be grown successfully in containers. With some thought given to choosing various types of plants available, such as dwarf plants or bush plants, all vegetables can be happily grown and harvested in containers.

Vegetables that take up a little space, such as carrots, radishes and lettuce for example, as well as plants that bear fruit over an extended time, such as tomatoes and peppers can be very successfully grown, and indeed, are perfect for container vegetable gardening.

What you can grow in a container is limited only by the space that you have available and the size of your flowerpots. You could grow a summer salad in one pot – just plant a tomato, a cucumber, some parsley or chives in a large pot together. These plants all have the same water and sunlight requirements and grow very well together.

Vegetable plant varieties
Seed companies realize that homeowners have less and less space to devote to vegetable gardens. Every year they come out with new vegetable plant varieties suitable for growing in small spaces and vegetable container gardens. Be on the lookout for key words like: bush, compact and dwarf species.

But almost all vegetables that are grown in a back yard vegetable garden can be grown in a container garden with as much success. Vegetables that vine, like runner beans and cucumber will, of course, need more space, but can be grown quite well in containers.

Containers and pots
Selecting containers: Containers for your plants can be almost anything: flowers pots, pails, buckets, wire baskets, wooden boxes, window planters, strawberry pots, washtubs, large food cans, plastic bags, drums, half barrels… almost anything you can think of. So long as there is enough space for root growth you cannot go wrong with the containers you choose.

An added advantage to selecting smaller to more medium sized containers is that they are movable, allowing you to access the best positions needed for your vegetables.

Drainage: Having said all that, it is vitally important that whatever container you choose has proper drainage. Drainage holes are needed at the base of every container to drain off any excess water. The best place for drainage holes is on the sides of the container, about a centimetre from the bottom. Adding a layer of coarse gravel or small pebbles at the bottom of the container will improve your drainage as well.

Color: The color of your container is also important, bearing in mind that a dark container will absorb more heat, which could damage the roots of your plant, than a light colored container. If the container you choose is dark, paint it a lighter color.

Size matters: As mentioned before, the size of your container is important. For larger plants a large container is necessary. For example, if you are growing a tomato or eggplant, using a 20 litre container is the best. However, you could use a 10 litre container, but you will have to be more vigilant and certainly give your plants considerably more attention than you would otherwise.

Soils to use
Synthetic mixes or ‘synthetic soils’ are almost always recommended for growing vegetables in containers. These synthetic mixes already have most of the components needed to give a good start to your growing vegetables. Having a ‘soil’ that is sterile and pH balanced, allows both moisture and air to circulate to the root system, that has the necessary nutrients, allows good drainage and is lightweight is the best way to get a good start for your vegetable garden.

These mixes may be composed of sawdust, wood chips, vermiculite, perlite, fern peat or almost any other type of organically acceptable media. Regardless of what the mixture is of your synthetic soil, it must be free from disease and weed seeds.

Garden centres have a variety of mixes available or you could mix up some of your own. Refer to the Organic Potting Soil for your Flowerpot Farm section at the end of this article for more information about this.

Fertilizing your vegetables
Fertilizing your vegetable garden can start with the potting soil you use. Mixing one part compost to two parts planting mix will improve the fertility of your plants. Also, using a slow release complete organic fertilizer at planting will provide your plants with food for the growing season.

Once your vegetables are growing, the easiest way to fertilize your plants is to prepare a nutrient solution and pour it over the soil. There are many good organic fertilizer mixes available to make nutrient solutions. If you are growing from seed, then you would only use a nutrient solution in your water once the plants have grown at least a couple of leaves.

Your plants should be watered with a nutrient solution at least once a day, although this may vary from crop to crop. Slow growth periods require less watering, while plants that have a lot of foliage growth might require move watering.

It is very important that you leach all unused fertilizer out of the pot, or rinse the pot, once a week. You do this by watering with plain water until its running out the drainage holes at the bottom of the container. This gets rid of any build up of harmful materials in the soil.

Watering your vegetables
Proper watering is essential for a successful container garden. Generally a watering once a day is adequate, although this varies from crop to crop, and in the very warm climates you might even have to water twice a day. Avoid wetting the foliage of the plants as this could encourage plant disease. You should use enough water to keep the soil moist between watering times.

The only time you would over saturate the soil is when you do your weekly rinsing. Remember that each watering should be done with a nutrient solution except for the weekly leaching when you would use just plain water. This is also when drainage becomes very important. If there is insufficient drainage, then the roots will become waterlogged and your plants will suffocate and die from lack of oxygen.

Sunlight requirements
Nearly all vegetable plants will grow better in full sunlight than in shade. However, leafy crops such as lettuce, cabbage, spinach and parsley can tolerate more shade than root crops, such as radishes, beets, turnips and onions. These root vegetables can in turn tolerate more shade than vegetables that bear fruit such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and eggplants.

A good guide to use then, would be if you pick a vegetable it must have more sunlight than a vegetable you would dig up, which in turn must have more sunlight than ‘green’ or ‘leafy’ vegetables. Move your containers around to get the best advantage of the sunlight needs for your vegetables.

Seeding and Transplanting
It is a personal choice as to whether you want to grow your vegetables from a seed or if you want to buy a seedling plant from a nursery. Either method has its advantages and disadvantages.

If you are a person that likes to wait and watch things grow, then planting seeds is ideal for you. You can germinate your seeds in almost any smallish container, a baking or plastic tray, a small flower pot; even a cardboard milk container can be used to germinate your seeds.

A wonderful idea is to make a newspaper container (refer to the Shared Know-How section on page 6), to germinate your seeds, this way you won’t have to disturb the young root system when you transplant your seedling to its container.

You could also buy peat pots, which are especially for starting seedlings, and are also planted with the seedling when you transplant your seedling. Geminating your seeds is very easy.

Fill your container with your potting mix; cover your seeds to a depth of between about a half to one centimetre and keep the soil moist. Alternatively, you could buy your seedlings from the nursery and then transplant them into your prepared container. Do make sure that you don’t over handle the young root system and remember to give a good first watering with a nutrient solution.

Diseases and insects
Vegetables grown in containers are as vulnerable to all the diseases and insects that a ground grown vegetable garden is. Plants must be regularly checked for any insect infestations or any plant diseases. If you do get an infestation it is a good idea to use an organic pesticide as soon as you notice any signs of infestation. Remove any leaves or stems that show signs of disease before the disease spreads, and treat your plant to a suitable treatment. There is a wide variety of organic plant treatments and pesticides available at any garden centre.

Harvesting the fruits of your labour
For the greatest amount of enjoyment from flowerpot farming, harvest your vegetables at their peak of maturity when a vegetable’s full flavour has developed. The sense of satisfaction and achievement you feel, will make your excellent produce taste even more delicious.